While the engine was out it was a good time to remove and rebuild all of my through hull valves. The backing plates on the old valves was just 3/4" plywood so I decided to use G10 3/4" fiberglass for the new ones. This way water can't hurt them. I used lapping compound to lap all the tapered cone spartan valves. I ordered the lapping compound from spartan marine. One valve had to be replaced. It was left over winter with water in it and it froze so the tapered cone expanded and ever since I bought the boat it had a slight drip. I made a new cone on the lathe but eventually decided to replace it with a new 1 1/2" Groco valve. After making the backing plates and epoxying them to the hull, I installed the valves with 3M 5200 sealant and new 1/4" S.S. bolts. I also replaced all rubber hoses.
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| new split coupling |
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| empty engine compartment |
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| new groco and rebuilt spartan valves |
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| reinstalled through hull valves |
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| 3M 5200 on through hull fitting |
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| putting 3M 5200 on base of valve |
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| grounding plate ready to install |
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| valve backing plates installed |
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| valves and backing plates |
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| old and rebuilt valves |
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| head through hull removes |
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| I made through hull removal tools |
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| removing a through hull fitting... |
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| engine cooling valve |
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| before polishing and lapping |
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| removing bolts on valve |
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| removal tool.. |
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| valve before removal |
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